When we eventually got to Visakhapatnam, which was our last outpost on our trip to Andhra Pradesh, we came across the first bad weather since we had started on the tour. It was raining, but it wasn’t really bad, more like a drizzle than a downpour. But the first day we tried to photograph at some nearby sites, we had to give up as the weather was just too inclement.
The following day, as we were getting pushed for time, we headed out again for the same sites, and went first to Thotlakonda Monastery. It is not far outside the city, maybe only 15km, and was situated on a hill overlooking the Bay of Bengal.
I was surprised by just how developed the site had been, spread out, as it was, over a large area, having stūpas, chaitya halls and Buddhapāda shrines for devotion; but also around 100 vihāras for the monks who lived there. It also has a large refectory, kitchen and storerooms.
It was an impressive site, and much more than we had thought it would be from what we had seen on the previous day.
After visiting this site we drove back around 5km to visit the Bavikonda site. It was closed and there was no sign of life, as it had been on the previous day, and we weren’t sure we could gain entry. Later in the day though we tried again, and just made it in time before the attendant retired for the day.
Bavikonda is very similar, but a bit smaller than Thotlakonda, having all the same buildings, and layout as the other monastery. There must have been a lot of trade going through these coastal areas to support two large monasteries, so close together.
After we failed to get entrance to Bavikonda for the second time, we made a mad dash for Srikulam and the Salihundam Stūpa and Museum site. It was quite a long drive, and we weren’t sure if the weather would even allow for photography.
We had a backup plan, which was to stay overnight, and try again in the morning, but when we got there although definitely wet, it was not prohibitive, so we went first to the museum, a very nice, small building. Airy and light, but also leaking from lack of repair.
Afterwards we climbed up the main site inself, which must have been visible all around in the height of it glory, standing as it did on a high hill, and having a Mahā Stūpa on top, and many votive stūpas, chaitya halls and other buildings built around the hill. What I didn’t see here were signs of a monastery, though it appears it was a monastic site in its day.
Having got the photographs we wanted we dedcided not to stay overnight in Srikulam, but returned to Visakhapatnam. We stopped at Bavikonda on the way, more in desperation than anything else, and this time we gained entry.
